S7s: 3 Apr- Bye, Break

1) Spring break is ending. Tomorrow, we're back for nine weeks left of the school year. Family and weather dictated that I stay close but I had a great week that included:

• My niece, Suelee, was in town for the week. She had her two kids. I hung out with them a bunch. Eva is pretty stinking cute.
  
• Went to Jack of the Wood for Trivia with some of the Enka crew. I learned that Charlotte is the second largest city in the Southeast after Jacksonville, FL. Atlanta metro is bigger, but the city itself is smaller. 
• Had drinks with Michael Hodges. He's an athletic trainer in Buncombe County and he's doing the Great Divide this summer. I'm so excited for him. And jealous. It was fun getting to share advice and reliving the journey.
• Cleaned the house a little. Got a bunch of stuff delivered to Goodwill and the recycling facility.
• I learned that I need a new motor for the washing machine. Not going to happen. This one is going trash and I'm shopping for a new one.
• I went camping in Turkeypen along the South Mills River. Just me and my hammock and some reading stuff. It was great to be solo and disconnected from technology. It was going to be two nights, but weather forced me to do just one. 

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2) This is Shawn Evans. Today is is his Birthday. Shawn is a new friend of mine, but a great guy. He hired wrestlers last year when he had to move and paid them well. He's a heck of a biker, he joined me for a few days of the Great Divide last year. We also got a ride in today. And yesterday, he brought me a refrigerator because I had posted on Facebook that I was looking for one. They had an extra. 

3) I learned in my reading last week that the human hand may have evolved for combat. We are the only hominid or primate that can close our hands into a fist. The human jaw may have evolved to better sustain blows. Interesting. Look it up.

4) I've been reading a little more about HB2. I stand by my position that it is not about bathrooms. I learned that in addition to stripping municipal governments of local control it also has moved all discrimination lawsuits out of state courts. That means if I feel like I am being discriminated against because of my ethnicity, I cannot legally sue within the state court system. I must file a federal suit, that can often take longer and be more costly. It's as if the state of North Carolina does not want to protect its citizens from discrimination.

5) I am starting to get into better riding shape from the winter. Rode the Davis-Evans loop on Monday, climbed Elk Mountain to the Blue Ridge Parkway on Friday and then hammered 43 miles with Dan and Derek over Jeter Mt and out to Etowah yesterday. Finished that with a ride today and I'm almost at 90 miles this week!

6) Opening Day of baseball today. I'm interested, but not that much. I love Clayton Kershaw. I get bored of baseball though. Shorten the season! I am excited that this is Master's Week!

7) Special congratulations to Josh Blatt. After finishing 7th in Greco in Fargo last summer and winning the State Championship in February at 106, he went to the NHSCA Nationals and placed 2nd! That's amazing. Mitchel Langford placed 4th two years ago, that tells you the depth of these tournaments. Great job on being an All American.

We also had three other kids go to Virginia Beach... all our state placers. Morgan King, Will Baldwin and Paul Searcy all went 2-2. They won against some tough kids and lost some close matches. We were always competitive and hopefully this experience will help us for next season. Knights Wrestling has some high expectations. 

Great Divide: By the Numbers

Some numbers from #uyridesdivide

1 flat tire (Galton Pass, BC)

1 National Park (Grand Teton)

1 National Monument (El Malpais)

1 complete fall- second to last day, sand took me down. Soft landing.

2 provinces: Alberta, British Columbia

3 countries

3.5 items lost: waterbottle descending Divide south of Butte, pair of socks in Lima, one cycling glove in Colter Bay, SOG knife coming off Carnero Pass

5 Care packages received

5 visits to bike shops: tire and seatpost in Whitefish, new chain and adjustments in Pinedale, brake pads in Breckenridge, brakes adjusted in Salida, new tire in Silver City

5 times I mailed stuff home

6 states: Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, Chihuahua

8 times I crossed an Interstate, (not including 6 miles I rode on I-15 coming into Butte)

14 nights spent that were not in a tent (5 in hotels, everything else free or donation lodging on the route)

25 nights spent in tent: 12 nights in campgrounds, 13 free/backcountry camping

18 National Forests: Flathead, Lolo, Helena, Beaverhead, Targhee, Bridger-Teton, Medicine Bow, Routt, Arapahoe, White River, Pike, San Isabel, Gunnison, Rio Grande, Carson, Santa Fe, Cibola, Gila

28 counties (5 Montana, 1 Idaho, 5 Wyoming, 9 Colorado, 8 New Mexico)

31.4 shortest mileage day (La Garita, CO to near the summit of Indiana Pass)

40 Days, including 3 zero days (days of no travel)

65.1 average daily mileage (70.4 if you don’t include the zero days)

104 longest mileage day (Macks Inn, ID to Colter Bay, WY)

2,607 miles traveled (according to Garmin)

159,000 ft (approx. elevation gained—that’s 30.1 vertical miles)

74 billion- estimated number of times bitten by mosquitoes

Great Divide Superlatives

Favorite Campsite (remote/backcountry):

1)      next to Flathead River, BC

2)      near Indiana Pass summit, CO

3)      Desert between Cuba and Grants

Next to Flathead River, BC

Favorite Camground (developed):

1)      Merry Widow Mine and Campground, Basin, MT

2)      Lava Lodge, Wyoming- stayed in their cabin

3)      Bannack State Park, MT

Bannack State Park, MT

Favorite Lodging, non-camping:

1)      Llama Lodge

2)      Whitefish Bike Hostel

3)      Tie: Toaster House in Pie Town & Jeff Sharp’s house in Hachita

Llama Lodge, MT

Best free Lodging: Greg King’s in Breckenridge

View of Mt Quandry from Greg's porch

Favorite Towns:

1)      Whitefish, MT

2)      Salida, CO

3)   Steamboat Springs, CO

4)      Breckenridge, CO and Banff, AB

Bike Run at Whitefish Bike Hostel, MT

Best Breakfast:

1)      Atlantic City Mercantile, Atlantic City, WY

2)      Stray Bullet Café, Ovando, MT

3)      Columbine Café, Breckenridge, CO

Best Lunch:

1)      Anong’s Thai, Rawlins, WY

2)      Three Barrels Brewery, Del Norte, CO

3)      Elkford Motor Inn, Elkford, BC

Best Dinner:

1)      Ribeye at Wise River Club, MT

2)      Little Cambodia, Salida, MT

3)      tie: Red Bowl World Curry Haus, Steamboat Springs, CO & El Farolito, El Rito, NM

Cheryl and Dylan (top) and the great hospitality at Wise River Club

Favorite Brewery:

1)      Great Northern Brewery, Whitefish, MT

2)      Three Barrels Brewery, Del Norte, CO

3)      Wind River Brewery, Pinedale, WY

Favorite Climb:

1)      Richmond Peak, MT

2)      Marshall Pass, CO

3)      Pioneer Mountains Scenic Hwy, MT

4)      Tie: Elk Pass, BC/AB & Huckleberry Pass, MT'

Trail that wraps around Richmond Peak

Hardest Climb:

1)      Climb out of Abiquiu

2)      Two climbs out of Radium/Colorado River

3)      Section between Helena and Basin

4)      Climb to Brazos Ridge Overlook, NM

Colorado River Valley near Radium

Favorite Descent:

1)      Richmond Peak

2)      Conejos River from Platoro
     3)   Descent to Salida on County Rd 175

4)      Drop to Radium/Colorado River

5)      Tie: Galton Pass (until I flatted) & descent into Basin, MT

Descent along Conejos River

Prettiest Section:

1)      First 30 miles out of Banff

2)      Indiana Pass to Horca, CO

3)      Gila National Forest, NM

4)      Marshall Pass to Cochetopa to Carnero Pass

Spray Lake, Alberta

Hardest Section, non-climbing:

1)      Mud near Black Canyon Campground, Gila National Forest, NM

2)      Warm River Rail-Trail, ID

3)    Mud near Collins Park, NM

4)      Descent from Flathead Pass, BC

Backside of Flathead Pass

Scariest Moment:

1)      Running into bear on road in Montana

2)      Lightning storm in both Wyoming and New Mexico

3)      Random dude that parked and camped near me in Montana

Running from storms in Wyoming

Weirdest, Interesting or Most Random moment:

1)      Contact flew out of my eye before arriving Rawlins

2)      Being stared at by cows while eating beef jerkey

3)   Buying tamales from Roger in Del Norte, CO

4)   Attending the dance in Hachita, NM

Roger made good tamales

Section I’d was like to do over:

1)      Gila National Forest- without the rain/mud

2)      Eureka to Whitefish- getting rear tire fixed

3)      Entire Canadian section- so remote, rugged and beautiful and I flatted Galton

Best thing to wake up to:

1)    Rainbow near Middlewood Hill, WY

2)    Rain falling while in my bunk at Lava Mt Lodge, WY

3)    Anytime there were no mosquitoes in the morning

Bittersweet

I'm writing from a Starbucks in downtown El Paso. My train should have departed by now, but it has been delayed until at least 7:30. I've spent the last 24 hours or so with Brian, a new friend that I met north of El Rito over a week ago. He picked me up in Antelope Wells yesterday and helped me box my bike up. He gave me free housing and showed me around El Paso and took me to good Mexican and BBQ places. Without his generosity, I would have paid a lot for a shuttle to come get me or biked for two days from Antelope Wells to El Paso, so I'm very grateful for his time and hospitality.

Before I got to the border, I had to get to Hachita, about 80 miles from Silver City. It was a pretty easy ride, past the Tyrone Mine, through desert and ranches, paralleling the interstate and down the highway. The only hiccups were the cross winds the last 8 miles and the fact I left my debit card at breakfast on Saturday morning. I stopped for for snacks and drinks for the day and realized it wasn't with me. When I went back to the restaurant, my card wasn't there. The owner of the place, who had sat and talked to me for a few minutes, had gotten in the car and was heading down the highway to try to find me.

In Hahita, I found Jeff Sharp, Southern Terminus coordinator and trail angel. I was expecting a cot to sleep on and some water and they fed me sandwiches, BBQ, chips, cookies, Fanta and PBRs. There was also a dance going on in Hachita that night that they took me to. Apparently, years ago, Hachita was the place to be for these monthly dances. People would drive hours to party and dance in Hachita. Jeff has been a huge part of both the Great Divide and CDT, shuttling hikers and bikers and helping people out when needed. He installed a water pipe in town for riders to refill-- there wasn't one before. He's working on making a place for people to camp. He and Toni knew all the questions to ask and we had great conversation. He was even there for the finish of this year's Tour Divide Race, which was one exciting finale where three people went under the record time.

The scene at the ball was great. I definitely stood out: I was the only one not wearing denim or cowboy boots. Most guys had cowboy hats. And there I was in my khaki shorts and Tevas. Oh, and I was the only Asian in the Hachita Community Center.

But everyone was friendly. I talked to a rancher named Ed who said the band playing was the same band that he and his wife danced to in college over 40 years ago. They were excellent dancers and were having a wonderful time. It was fun to see the older crowd enjoy themselves as they two stepped the night away. I went home well before the festivities ended, but it was a honor to see the small community rally and enjoy themselves.

I describe yesterday, my finishing day, like I describe the last day of school each year: Bittersweet. You're excited for a break and change, but you're going to miss the daily routine of doing something that you love. I woke up in the morning and had trouble wrapping my head around the fact that I was actually going to finish this ride. I was glad to be going home, but I wasn't ready to be done. It's a difficult feeling to express.

It was 46.7 miles from Jeff's house to Antelope Wells. After being fed a hot breakfast and coffee, I felt great for about 30 of them. Then I was wearing down. Getting tired. Brian passed me on the road and said Hi and that he'd see me at the border. The mileage signs counted down to Antelope Wells. When I passed the '10', I knew I was really close and I was slightly re-energized. Then it was 9-8, etc. At 4 miles to go, the miles just seemed to click by. You could see the border station by then and every pedal stroke got you closer.

Brian greeted me just before the border station. I told him I was going to riding into Mexico really quick. Rode past the new US Customs station that looked nice and fancy and even had a solar panel system outside. The Mexican station looked like a dingy ranch house. The first guy to talk to me didn't speak English, so he went and got someone who could. I told them I just wanted to ride to the fence and back. They said fine, but I'd still have to stop at customs. At customs, they asked if I had drugs and opened my bags and looked in. I said I just wanted to ride to the fence and turn around and they could watch. They searched me anyway and after being satisfied I wasn't some narco, they let me go. The nice paved road immediately became dirt in Mexico. I rode less than 1/4 mile and turned around. Waved at all the Mexican border patrol agents. Talked to a young one, who looked like he was about 15 and was in fatigues and carrying a machine gun. He was very shy about his English, I was embarrassed about my lack of Spanish but we tried to carry a conversation. I think he just wanted to see the bike up close.

Coming back into the United States, one agent took my passport card and the other was checking out my bike. He said a bike like Hulk was exactly what he wanted. He loved the big tires. We joked for a minute or two, I got my card back and they let me go.

In the irony of ironies, as I was riding back to the "Antelope Wells" sign to get my photo taken, I got a puncture. My front tire was leaking. Right at the finish. I deemed that appropriate, like God's signal that it was time for my ride to come to an end. Be content where you are. No new ideas. At least for now...

Took photos of me, Hulk and Baron. As that was happening, three guys on Kawasaki motorbikes arrived. They had started in Roosville, MT and come down to Antelope Wells. They were finishing mostly the same ride that I did. Except they had gas power. And it only took them eight days. They were fun group. They had some bike issues and were tired, so were going to buy a cheap pickup and load the bikes on them, drive to Iowa and then maybe resell the truck.

But the special thing is that we all got to share in our journeys. The elation of completing something you set out to accomplish. The somber feeling we had because we were no longer on the journey.

Bittersweet.

Expectations

The last few days since leaving Grants has been a period of high expectations only to be derailed or disappointed. No worries, my attitude is still great and things are rolling along, but to say that everything went as expected or planned would simply be lying.

Monday, July 27: Grants to Pie Town, 70.1 miles

I opted for the El Malpais Alternate this morning and not because it was nearly 18 miles shorter than the main route. I wanted to ride it because it was paved and after the issues with mud in the desert and the rain that fell in Grants, I wanted a smooth ride. I got one. It was scenic and low traffic. There were a few large trucks, but they gave me plenty of room. A guy in a pickup even stopped and asked if I wanted a lift. I was 4 miles from the turn off to Pie Town and he was headed in a different direction, so I passed.

I made pretty good time to Pie Town. I was pretty excited because Pie Town is somewhat legendary in Great Divide circles. Well, I was bummed when I got there. I arrived just before 4:00 and everything was closed. The Pie-O-Neer was only open on Thursday-Sunday and the other cafe closed at 3:00. I also had a package from Buck Tanner at the post office, but small community post offices often close at noon or 1:00. Everything I was looking forward to was closed, it was indeed a let down. The only place open was a little shop run by Janet, who sells her own art and items from other local artists. She also sells some sodas and light food items, so I ate and talked to her for a while. She also pointed me to the Toaster House.

The Toaster House is definitely one of the highlights of Pie Town and the Great Divide. Nita, the owner, apparently raised a family there. Now, it is unoccupied except for the riders and hikers that are allowed to overnight there along the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route and the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail. And all the toasters that decorate the fence outside. It is donation driven, you just leave some money in a box inside. The house is kept stocked with food; there were fresh potatoes and onions on the counter, sodas, lots of packaged snacks, a pantry full of non-perishable food and even a whole watermelon. The back had a refrigerator full of frozen pizza and pot pies and filled with beer. It was one of the neatest things I've experienced. I ate some of the pizza, had some soda, a Rolling Rock and some ramen.

About 8:30, a four wheeler pulled up and behind it was Chad. He couldn't find the Toaster House, so a local showed him the way. I went out and said Hi. When I told the young man who brought Chad my name, he said, "Is that Cambodian?" I was impressed. He said he was in the Navy and had a Cambodian friend.

Tuesday, July 28: Pie Town to Middle of Nowhere, 64.6 miles

I was up early with no where to go because the post office didn't open until 8:00. Ate some food and made coffee at the Toaster House. Left my donation to the Toaster House. Rode to the post office and got my care package. Thanks Tanners. Went next door to Janet's again and had some coffee and a croissant. She, Chad and I talked for a while. We decided to stay until 9:30 when the cafe opened. You can't leave Pie Town without having pie!

The wait was worth it. I had the New Mexico Apple ala mode. Connor, who is doing an Individual Time Trial (ITT), joined us. He had already covered 30 miles that morning. He started on July 5 and was caught up with me already, averaging well over 100 miles per day. The three of us swapped stories and gorged. It meant a late start, after 10:30, but the terrain was set up for lots of fast miles.

When I started rolling, I was making good time. I was hoping to get close to Beaverhead Work Center, 99 miles away. Covered 30 miles quickly and then it started raining. Conner and I waited out the rain for nearly an hour. Then we were riding again. Covered another 25 miles pretty well, though it would rain lightly off and on. The grades were gentle and Beaverhead was looking good. Then I hit a section of clay. The clay clumps, so as you roll it clogs the clearance between your tires and frame locking up your wheels. You'd clean off as much as you could, roll 3 feet and then it's all clogged again. I was two inches taller because it would clump to the bottom of my shoes.

Conner said he was going to push on, he was more determined and has a lighter set up than me. I pushed about 3/4 mile and camped. Beaverhead was not going to happen. I was still 30 miles away. It was frustration, mixed with disappointment. The rain was crushing my momentum.

Wednesday, July 29: Middle of Nowhere to Rocky Canyon Campground, 66.3 miles

Again, I was up at 6:30 but took my time getting packed in the morning. It had rained again and I wasn't going very far fast. When I did get moving, I made the strategic decision of not riding in the road. I rode in the grass beside the road as much as I could. Pushed where I had to. I was really thankful for the big tires this morning. Biked about 2.5 miles before the road met another road. The surface, while still dirt, improved immediately. I was so elated to be able to pedal. I was going to make up for lost time. Lake Roberts, 85 miles away, was my goal!

Like the day before, I was making great time. The Beaverhead Work Center houses Hot Shot Fire Crews that go in and fight wildfires. A firefighter named Anthony rode down to the water station and asked if I needed anything. He told me they have men all around-- in California, British Columbia and other places fighting fires right now. He had tweaked his knee, so he was recovering. I told him I was good, I'd probably grab a cold drink from the vending machine. He said it was broken, but he'd be back. A few minutes he returns with a tall cup of Pepsi and a bowl of fresh fruit mixed in yogurt. I wasn't expecting that! This day kept getting better. I was definitely going to make Lake Roberts.

Soon after leaving Beaverhead, you pass little Wall Lake. There it started raining again. I waited 30 minutes before riding on. The rain let up and things were going well. I topped out on two climbs. On the descent to Black Canyon, I hit the clay again. I was literally stuck. I would push 3-4 feet, wheels lock up and I'd spend 2-3 minutes cleaning. I decided the best technique would be to drag the bike sideways. I would do this for 4-5 feet, rest and do it again. I did this for about 300 meters before I was too tired. 80 pound bike, pulling it uphill, was tiring. Lake Roberts wasn't going to happen. I cursed and fumed and laughed and cursed some more. Things were going so well...

Had someone driven by in a pickup I would have asked for a ride out of there, but alas, I would see no one on that road.

I ended up ditching the bike and walking nearly a quarter mile to see where the road improved. Then I made two trips, one carrying my panniers and the other carrying, pushing, dragging the bike. One more cleaning and I could ride. My drivetrain was gunked and gravel grinding, but I could pedal. Maybe I would make Lake Roberts.

About 6:30, the skies opened up again. Evening thunderstorm. Of course. I rode on since I was already wet. Made it to Rocky Canyon, which is not the developed campground I was hoping for. And it was still 20 miles short of Lake Roberts. But the rain had stopped and I set up camp. I cleaned off my dirty stuff in the rising creek next to the campground. When I was settled, I got in the tent to rest and eat. And then it rained again. At least I was dry.

Thursday, July 30: Rocky Canyon Campground to Silver City, 50.3 miles

When I woke, I did a lot of things that I were no fun. I packed a soaking wet tent. I put on wet clothes. Wet jersey and shorts, wet socks and shoes. The rain the day before and overnight had caused the water to rise in the creeks draining into the valley. Lots of fording of creeks that had flooded the road.

But the sun came out! Thursday would be the first day I did not get rained on in New Mexico. I rode into Lake Roberts finally! At the motel/store there, I asked if there was a place I could get breakfast. The lady said no, nothing was opened. She had some burritos made, but sent them away to a worksite. She offered me hers, but I didn't want to take that. More disappointment! But then the truck that had picked up the burritos came back for something and she grabbed one for me, so things worked out.

It was a big 10 mile climb out of the Lake Roberts and the climb didn't feel bad at all. There was no rain, the sun was out and I was going to make Silver City. It's really unfortunate about all the rain, because the Gila National Forest was one of the prettiest places that I rode through on the Great Divide. I just couldn't appreciate it at the time because I was frustrated and slowed down.

Roll into Silver City and stop at Gila Hike and Bike. For the last 4 days, I was wondering if my rear tire would make it to Silver City, much less the border. I would occasionally hear or feel leaks that the sealant would close. But I could tell that a good amount of air had left the tires and the tires were getting close to being worn through. I was going to either get them to put a bunch of sealant in the tire and take a chance on the border or maybe get them to rotate the tires. Against my expectations, they had a 29x3 Surly Knard in the shop. I was going to have to buy a new tire when I got home anyway, so I went ahead and bought it and had them install it. Finally, something working my way! And now, I knew I wouldn't be stranded 4 miles from the border with a giant hole in the tire.

Staying at the Bike Haus. Found Conner (below) there too! He's going to bike 120 miles to the border on Friday. It's an interesting place. About 5-6 guys live there and they open their house to the random cyclists who need a place to crash. It is definitely a bachelor set up, I would not call it the Marriott. The people living there are an interesting, eclectic group who range from a college professor to people who just arrived in Silver City and looking to get established. Not my first choice, but it's cheap and that works for me right now.

Im two days to the border. Brian, who I met over a week ago in northern New Mexico, has agreed to come get me at the border on Sunday and house me in El Paso and take me to catch the Monday train east. It's really neat how things indeed do work out. I was planning on biking two days from the border to El Paso and this random dude I meet offers to come get me (though he said I was welcome to bike it if I wanted). My plan is to take the train home, tickets run me $279. That's versus $600-700 to fly and ship bike, so it's worth it to me. A bike box is only $10 on Amtrak, $150 on most airlines.

The homestretch is near. Thanks for reading and following. Thanks for the prayers, encouragement and support.

Moving on

Today, July 26, marks my 33rd day since I left Banff. I've biked about 2,120 miles. I'm approximately 375 miles from the Antelope Wells.

Some highlights since Shawn left me in Del Norte on Tuesday:

- Indiana Pass is the highest elevation I'll be on the route at 11,910 ft and it's a long 22 mile climb from Del Norte that gains 4,000 feet of elevation. My plan was to stay at a cabin about a third up the climb, but when I called the guy said that staying there tonight was not an option. I didn't want to do the entire climb in the morning, so I decided to start up and then camp somewhere along the way. I met an older gentleman from Alamosa who was doing a 3 day loop. He said he was too old to being doing stuff this hard. 

I found a nice clearing about 3 miles short of the summit. It was next to a road that led to private property. Usually, the people aren't home, but here they were. A very nice older couple stopped and asked me if I needed anything. They live in Corpus Christi, TX and spend their summers here at 11,200 feet and 8-10 miles away from their closest neighbors. They said if I needed anything to come to their house, about 1/2 mile down the road.

- Wednesday, after crossing Indiana Pass, I went around the old town of Summitville. Summitville is now an EPA Superfund site. Gold, iron and copper were mined here but left behind a scarred mountainside and contaminated water sources. There are gorgeous streams but the Adventure Cycling Maps say in bold that the waters are contaminated and not drink.

- This part of Colorado is all new to me and it's fantastic. The forests are gorgeous and green, great backcountry sites and magnificent scenery. I ate lunch at Platoro, a little community that caters to people heading into the mountains. The nearest paved road is 20 miles away. The Conejos River runs out of Platoro and was full of anglers and one of the most scenic descents. Road was in great shape and I could go fast. Maybe too fast...

- I have two sets of riding clothes and I like to "wash" one set each day and let them dry out by strapping to my panniers so that I have somewhat clean ones for the next day. Somewhere on that bumpy and fast descent, I lost my shorts. When I realized it, I was distressed. I biked back about half a mile and gave up, they could be anywhere. I was pondering how to get a second set so I wouldn't have to wear the same shorts over and over. Would REI or Nashbar ship General Delivery? Close to the end of the road, a guy on a motorbike pulls up next to me and yells, "You're losing clothes!" I had talked to Tim in the restaurant at Platoro and he saw my shorts, realized they had recently been dropped and picked them up and caught up with me. Crisis averted!

- Another cool people moment, I had just crested La Manga Pass, which is the next big climb after leaving the Conejos River. In this post I mention some guys from Boulder who are doing the Colorado section supported. Shawn and I talked to them a little. Well, their SAG driver recognized me and yelled at me as I was beginning my descent and he was about to go over. Then he turned around and caught up with me. He said I was hauling ass and wanted to give me something. He insisted, so I let him give me some food and a Avery's White Rascal. Forrest is a Colorado University student who got roped into driving support for a bunch of friends. They were finishing their tour but he told me to rock on to Mexico.

- Entered New Mexico on Wednesday also. Climbed to Brazos Ridge Overlook. It was such a tough climb. Had to push the last half mile, the rocks were too big and loose to ride over. Beautiful view into the Cruces Basin Wilderness. I camped near there, with cows around me and coyotes barking nearby all through the night.

- Thursday was a long day. Rough roads made for slow riding. Had to brake on downhills because the rocks and bumps jarred everything. My shoulder hurt from the ride. I longed for front suspension, though I'm not sure how much it would have helped. Also, had a rain delay. But I talked to Brian from El Paso, who is doing 5 days of the Great Divide.

- Also, met Brant. A real cowboy. He was looking for some cows in the Carson National Forest.

- Stopped and talked to Joel, who's wife runs a little snack shop in Canon Plaza. It was in the Ride the Divide documentary. Their kids started it years ago when they were young. Both are grown and married now but the couple keep the snack stand open. Neighbors stop by, hunters and fishers will drop in and, of course, Great Divide riders stop for a break. I sat and talked with Joel for over 20 mins. He called me tough for doing the ride and also jokingly (I think) called me spoiled for needing a tent (the racers don't). He was glad to hear I was an educator, he was a retired administrator. Worked at a school with 500 students in grades K-12.

- Between Vallecitos and El Rito was one more climb. It was a fun and fast descent into El Rito. I ate at El Farolito, which is not only the lone place in town to eat, but also quite famous. Brian talked about it. My friends Brent and Jessie in Raleigh messaged me about it. It's for real and it's great Southwestern food.

- A man getting takeout sat and talked with me a while. He offered me camping on his property and I almost took him up on it. I studied the map while I was eating and saw that it was all downhill to Abiquiu so I decided to do that. I crushed the 14 miles to the Old Abiquiu B&B. Wanda offers cyclists camping on her property next to the Rio Chama for a donation. Her place is really nice and even though I'd already eaten, she left me some fruit and frozen custard for dessert. Highly recommended if you're ever in this area.

- Glad I made the call to get to Abiquiu. Friday may be the hardest day of the ride. That or the day I rode from Steamboat to Radium. You immediately start climbing right out of Abiquiu. I feel like I'm a strong climber, but I could never get a good cadence. You're not so much spinning as you are picking lines and mashing the pedals over obstacles. The photo below is before the road deteriorates. This is fine for short stretches, but for 20 miles, it wears on you. It took me over 5 hours to go 20 miles. The roads were washed out and rough. In 30-40 miles I saw no other person. Rode a little with Chad from Indiana, who I met in the morning back in Abiquiu. When I decided to call it a day after 54 miles, Chad pushed on another 20 miles to Cuba. I didn't want to ride in the rain, it was getting dark and I was tired. I did climb over 7,100 feet this day and the net elevation gain from Abiquiu to the highest point was over 4,000 feet.

- Up early and made coffee. Picked a good camping spot, because just a few miles pass where I camped, the forest became busy. Lots of RVs and other people camping. I would have camped with neighbors had I gone farther. This side of the forests also had more streams and water. Fast descent into Cuba, losing almost 3,000 feet of elevation. 

- In Cuba, saw Chad again. He spent the night in a motel and was riding on. I stopped for breakfast and to re-supply. Hit the trail about 10:30 and rolled into the desert. Talked to a ranger for a few minutes, the only ranger (not incuding Grand Teton) I've seen even though the Great Divide spends a majority of it's time on public lands managed by the US Forest Service or the Bureau of Land Management.

- Man, the desert was beautiful. The scenery amazing. It was hot, but didn't feel bad. I made sure to reapply sunscreen. I suffered three punctures. I know because I feel sealant from my tires spraying on my legs. But the sealant seems to be doing their job and closing the holes. I made sure to ride more careful. Roads were rough, but still in much better condition than the last two days.

- Slept good at camp last night. Woke up early (5:30) and riding by 6:30. Morning thunderstorm. Not much rain on me, but the lightning worried me. Caught up with Chad, who turns out camped about 4 miles ahead of me. We waded through some mud holes together. When it was time to climb out of the desert and into the Cibola National Forest, I lost him. I'm a faster climber and I was looking forward to shower and doing laundry in Grants.